The Mae Hong Son Loop — Thailand's Greatest Motorbike Route

If there is one ride that defines motorbike travel in Thailand, it is the Mae Hong Son Loop. A roughly 600km circuit from Chiang Mai through some of the most dramatic mountain scenery in Southeast Asia, the loop takes riders through remote mountain towns, past hilltribe villages, along ridge roads with views that stop you in your tracks, and through more curves than most riders will have experienced in their lives. Route 1095 alone — the road between Chiang Mai and Pai — contains over 1,800 curves. It is not a road you forget.

This guide covers the counter-clockwise route, widely considered the better direction for first-time riders — saving the most dramatic mountain riding for the second half when you are more familiar with the roads and the bike.

Chiang Mai to Mae Sariang

The counter-clockwise loop heads south out of Chiang Mai on Route 108. The riding here is open and relaxed compared to what comes later — a good warm-up for the days ahead.

Mae Sariang is the first major overnight stop — a quiet, unhurried riverside town on the Yuam River with a genuine local feel and very few tourists. The town has a handful of good guesthouses and riverside restaurants serving northern Thai food.

Recommended stop: Riverside guesthouses along the Yuam River — simple, affordable and genuinely charming.

Mae Sariang to Mae Hong Son

The road north from Mae Sariang to Mae Hong Son follows Route 108 through increasingly dramatic mountain terrain — long climbs, sweeping descents, and empty mountain roads. Traffic is light, the scenery is extraordinary and the riding is excellent.

Mae Hong Son is the highlight of the loop for many riders — a small, atmospheric town sitting in a valley surrounded by mountains, with a famous morning mist that hangs over the twin chedis of Wat Jong Kham and Wat Jong Klang reflected in the lake below. Allow at least one full day in Mae Hong Son.

Recommended stop: Any guesthouse within walking distance of Jong Kham Lake — the morning view is worth waking up early for.

Mae Hong Son to Pai

Route 1095 heading northeast — the most celebrated stretch of riding on the entire loop. The mountains here are serious, the road is relentless in the best possible way, and the views from the high passes are among the finest in the country.

Soppong (Pang Mapha) sits roughly halfway and makes an excellent overnight stop. The cave system at Tham Lod is particularly impressive.

Pai has excellent food, good accommodation at every price point and enough to keep you occupied for a rest day or two.

Recommended stop: Pai has excellent accommodation across all budgets — arrive early in high season as the town fills up quickly.

Pai to Chiang Mai

The final leg on Route 1095 — the famous 1,800-curve road. Riding it after several days on the loop, with your confidence at its peak, is the best possible way to finish.

Recommended stop: Mae Malai, just before the final descent into Chiang Mai, has a cluster of good roadside restaurants worth stopping at for a last lunch on the road.

Tips for Riding the Mae Hong Son Loop

• Allow at least 4 days — 7 is better. Rushing the loop misses the point entirely
• Fuel up whenever you see a petrol station — stations are sparse in the mountain sections
• The roads are well surfaced but landslides during and after the rainy season can cause damage — check conditions before riding between June and October
• A 250cc bike will complete the loop but a 300–500cc bike will do it more comfortably
• Mornings are the best time to ride — afternoon cloud and mist can reduce visibility on the high passes significantly